(Garza in Tibetan)
more from Ganzi
This morning, there's so much to discover on the road that leads from the hotel to the great monastery we put a : 30 km How to go 1.5 average! Ganzi is located at 3600 m but we do not suffer, our acclimation was perfect. For this town of 10,000 inhabitants, is the Ganzi Chinese name, Tibetans say Garze (or Kantze)
The prayer
A splendid giant prayer wheel that the faithful are turning at full speed, in a concert and gnashing piles of murmurs. This large cylinder is filled with richly decorated by miles of paper tape printed, covered with mantras. Handles dedicated to manual rotation are polished and black with dirt, they demonstrate the fervor of the faithful who operate this wheel all year long.
Manufactures craft a wool quilt
A little farther is a craftsman who draws our attention. He works in the street and tailoring "quilts." He installed a wooden frame with nails planted on four stools and "weave" a web of cotton from a reel of cotton, which is a glove unraveled! He then held a ball of white wool on cotton net. We will not wait for the end of the achievement but we are amazed by so cunning and know-how.
Meeting
At a photo stop at a nice house, we are invited to enter by the owner. The court and the ground floor is dedicated to small farming. By a wooden staircase we go up on deck and we have settled into the lounge where we used hot water and donuts to the dough twisted and finally we taste a little tsam-pa. Not easy, I just lost the hand anyway ... I manage to roll a nice ball that I enjoyed completely indifferent to our hostess laughs at my awkwardness.
I offer a small photo of the Dalai Lama. She is very excited, and we warmly thank us into his throne room or a huge photo of DL! She tells us that his two son are now in Dharamsala in India to the DL in exile. As we ride home, she makes me understand that she would appreciate the photos I took. It appears very quickly that it is impossible to transcribe the address in roman but still we carry two versions of the Tibetan and Chinese address ...
Monastery
We spend the rest of the day in the great monastery of Gelugpa sect. It is the largest sect of Tibet (yellow caps), the Dalai Lama belongs to this sect.
The main monastery is east of the monastic complex which includes three sets of buildings. The prayer room is very large, very high, supported by fifty huge square wooden pillars, finely decorated, very colorful. The room is crowded: 150 monks gathered here, squatting on cushions, swathed in purple cloaks, chain prayers in a monotone, haunting. The monks do not read the mantras they know their texts by heart, about a monk hand in the room singing a new prayer meeting and chimed.
Masks
Monk hails us from his balcony and shows us rooms novel: a series of rooms are decorated with thousands of statues of Buddha (Gold?). Then he leaves us in another locked room where we can enjoy our comfortable set of masks for ceremonies. There are a hundred of all sizes, each more frightening than others. These masks are intended to Ham, the great Tibetan ceremonial dance.
We continue our walk in the monastery, we meet monks who smile at us and invite us to move forward, to continue to cross this door, climbing as stair. So we find ourselves on the roof of the temple where we enjoy a breathtaking view over the city of Ganzi monastery and the village around us.
Collectors
During a visit corridors, we are raising a curtain and enter a sort of veranda whose yard is littered with pots of colorful flowers. We are greeted by a jovial monk named Sunan Sangpo. We read his name on the card he presents! He introduces us to his estate he shares with three other monks and exposes us ... his gun collection! We could probably have two or three hundred! Impressive. How are these monks could they amass such a collection, in the heart of the monastery.
Their situation is very strange, they seem to have a "neighborhood" particularly ornate, almost private. Their welcome is warm, we visit every area, they show us, among other things, their chapel where enthroned several photos of the Dalai Lama. Thanks to a few words of English, they tell us and show us that these photos can be quickly hidden by doors when visiting China.
Spontaneously, they asked us pictures of the Dalai Lama and are not surprised to receive it.
Palavers
Going down we are attracted by the din of discussion aloud. We crossed a porch to achieve a pretty garden terrace where all the monks were scattered in pairs, one sitting the other standing facing him, gesticulating. We are sitting in front of a dialectic philosophical part of the liturgy of this sect. The monk expresses a standing assumption, an assumption that I know yet, he punctuates his claim by a loud clap of hands stepped forward and jumped, leaning toward her partner. It takes an argument or a cons-cons-truth and still chained there for hours ... As to size, movements are amplified, minds and bodies get hot and coats are thrown away. In a brotherhood atmosphere, a sort of exaltation, of frenzy seizes some couples. Llamas monitor and animate these verbal jousting, they listen carefully, they intervene, or even laugh openly.
By turning around and taking group photos, we draw attention to one of them. Is it one of the top of this monastery? In any case, it is very beautiful, displays a handsome and speaks English. He told us back in Dharamsala where he was in the entourage of the Dalai Lama. We believe that his stay was not very long because his English is very summary.
We spent much of the day in this monastery in full operation, we took in most places of worship and living spaces (including kitchens) without receiving a sign of hostile or annoyed residents. Instead, incentives to enter, to continue our visit were evident.
Ganzi is not a tourist town and the monks are not harassed by tour groups ... They maintain a caring attitude and smiling.
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